Our pets are like parts of our family. No matter what’s going on in our lives, they’re always affectionate and happy to see us. Since they can’t tell us what they need, it’s our job to ensure they have long, happy lives by taking the best possible care of them. These ten steps are a great start:
10. Choose nutritious food and measure it carefully to avoid overfeeding.
9. Maintain a consistent exercise schedule. Pet obesity can cause serious health problems and shorten their life spans.
8. Don’t feed your pet “people food” that could make him sick.
7. See your veterinarian regularly for preventive care, including dental work and physical exams. This way you can catch a problem before it turns into something serious.
6. Get all required vaccinations to prevent serious diseases (cat vaccinations are different from dog vaccinations).
5. Engage with your pet for mental stimulation. Play with toys and get outside whenever you can.
4. Keep your home safe. Keep toxic cleaners and cables out of reach, avoid plants that are poisonous to cats, and gate off the stairs if your pet’s still young.
3. Supervise your pet outdoors. He could get loose of your yard, get into pesticides in the garden, or catch something from a stray animal.
2. Watch for signs of illness. Look for changes in appetite, attitude, and energy.
1. Spay and neuter your pet. Spaying removes the ovaries and uterus, and neutering removes the testicles. These procedures eliminate the desire to wander in search of a partner and also prevent certain diseases.
You probably know many of the substances that are poisonous to cats: household cleaners, antifreeze, insecticides. There are a few more that may surprise you, like aspirin, acetaminophen, and ibuprofen, and certain household plants. If your kitty nibbles on a few leaves she may just have an upset stomach, but worst case scenario, it could be fatal. Lilies, for example, cause severe kidney damage and can cause death after just a few hours.
It’s important to know the signs of poisoning so you can take action right away. If your cat starts vomiting, drooling excessively, staggering, struggling with breathing, or losing consciousness, call your veterinarian. He’ll want a thorough description of what your cat ate as well as what symptoms you noticed.
If you can’t get in touch with your vet, call the National Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435, which is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week. You’ll have to pay $60 on your credit card as a consultation fee. Be prepared to share the species, breed, age, sex, weight, symptoms, and information about the poison ingested.
To be safe you should have a first-aid kit handy:
- A bottle of hydrogen peroxide, 3 percent USP to induce vomiting
- Turkey baster, bulb syringe or large medicine syringe to administer peroxide
- Saline eye solution
- Artificial tear gel to lubricate eyes after flushing
- Mild grease-cutting dishwashing liquid for bathing an animal after skin contamination
Maybe you’ve been trying to breed your dog, and pregnancy is a joyous occasion. Or perhaps you left the back door open and you’re not thrilled about the prospect of puppies. Either way the signs and symptoms are the same—and so are the expectations along the way.
The heat, or estrus, cycle determines when your dog can be impregnated. The cycle has four stages:
1. Proestrus, the stage before eggs release. Your dog will be bleed during this stage, which lasts 4–20 days, and will be attracted but not receptive to males.
2. Estrus, the fertile phase. During this phase, which lasts 5–9 days, your dog will be receptive to males. The bleeding turns into a light pink discharge.
3. Diestrus, a non-receptive stage, lasting 56–60 days, when hormones are active on the ovary.
4. Anestrus, a stage that lasts several months, in which there is no ovarian activity.
Female dogs have, on average, two heat cycles per year. The first usually occurs by 6–12 months. For smaller breeds, it can happen as early as 5 months, and for larger breeds, 11 months or even later. The estrus cycle spans different time frames for different breeds—and sometimes, even for dogs of the same breed. Pregnancy during the first heat cycle is inadvisable since a 6-month old dog is still a puppy herself.
If you don’t intend to breed your dog, you should spay her before her first heat cycle to avoid accidental pregnancy and eliminate the risk of disease later in life. You can have her spayed while she’s in heat, but this could lead to complications.
Once you’ve noticed the signs and your vet confirms pregnancy, here’s what you can expect:
The gestation period (pregnancy) lasts about two months, or 58–68 days.
Canine pregnancy doesn’t require special treatment, but you should visit your vet for regular check-ups to ensure her overall health.
You should have your vet check her a week before her due date to anticipate any problems that may occur during whelping (the act of labor).
Whelping occurs in two stages. Stage I lasts 6–12 hours. She’ll have contractions, but you won’t see them. You may notice her restless and panting. During stage II, the fetuses begin to move through the birth canal. Your dog will be obviously straining at this point.
During the pregnancy, you’ll need to make some changes in your care routine to ensure a healthy delivery:
Your dog’s nutritional needs won’t change until the last 5 weeks, when they’ll nearly double.
Feed her the increased food in several small portions—not all at once.
She will require more water than usual, so keep an eye on the bowl!
Avoid strenuous exercise. Short walks and gentle play are perfect.
In some cases, dogs may require veterinarian intervention to deliver the puppies. Causes of Dystocia, or abnormal birth, include:
The shape and size of the pelvic canal.
Uterine inertia—meaning the uterine can’t contract and push the babies through the canal.
The puppies are too large.
The puppies may be in a position that makes smooth passage through the canal difficult.
You should call your veterinarian for intervention if:
Your dog’s been pregnant for over 70 days.
She’s been in stage I labor for 24 hours.
She’s had strong contractions for over an hour and hasn’t given birth to a pup.
You notice a foul-smelling vaginal discharge.
She begins vomiting excessively.
If everything goes smoothly, your dog will deliver from the comfort of your home. Here’s what you need to do:
Provide a whelping box (a low-sided, open-topped box) where she can lie until she delivers. This will prevent her lying down and accidentally killing her puppies. The box should be relatively small, with sides 6–8 inches tall (so the puppies won’t crawl out).
Line the floor with plastic, then paper, and then a flannel layer on top.
Tack the flannel to the sides of the box. This ensures it won’t smother the puppies if your dog paws at it.
When you love someone you’re not afraid to force them into therapy if they need it. That’s just what Jennifer Aniston’s doing for her aging corgi-terrier Norman—leaving him in the hands of a physical therapist.
Boston.com reports that Jen’s been paying $250 a week on massage, Reiki, and acupuncture treatments in her home.
A source said, “”Norman has been Jennifer’s constant companion during all her emotional upheavals, but he suffers from aching joints and stiffness. Jennifer doesn’t want to put him on medication just yet, so she has opted for doggy spa treatments from a licensed vet technician.”
It makes perfect sense. She loves her little guy! You always see pictures of her walking Norman on the beach, and she even posed with him for Elle Magazine in 2005. Just recently after her split with John Mayer, Jen admitted she wished men were more like dogs. She told Sky Magazine, “It wouldn’t be bad if, when a man comes home, he’d run to his woman with his tail wagging. That sort of excitement is something I’ve always missed in a man to be honest.” Join the club, Jen.
The average person doesn’t have movie millions and Friends syndication to pay for doggie spa treatments. But would you dish out hundreds for doggie spa treatments if you could?
Dogs bark excessively for a number of reasons, including boredom, loneliness, separation anxiety, fear, and protection instincts. You can’t eliminate barking altogether—it is how they communicate, after all—but you can teach your dog to only bark when the timing is right. If there’s an actual threat, for example.
In this post, we’ll dissect these root causes and discuss some possible ways to address them.
First Potential Problem: Boredom
Many breeds of dog have been historically used for hunting or working. They’re not genetically predisposed to sitting around a kitchen all day. So they get frustrated—and they bark. Try giving him something to look forward to. When you return home from work, take him for an extra-long walk with play time. Be sure to walk your dog throughout the neighborhood, as opposed to just letting him roam in your backyard, as this will stimulate his senses.
Stick to a regular schedule so he can depend on an eventual end to boredom. It also helps to leave him a wide array of dog toys to play with whenever he’s alone for an extended period of time.
Second Potential Problem: Loneliness and/or Separation Anxiety
You can teach your dog to deal better with isolation using a simple training method. Put him outside for short lengths of time to help him grow accustomed to your absence. Give him a treat, like a toy filled with peanut butter, to enjoy on his own, and only use this treat when you’re not around. This will help him create pleasant associations with solitude.
When you leave in the morning, even though you’ll miss your little guy, refrain from giving him an emotional goodbye. This will just make him anxious. Instead, let him settle into his alone routine—perhaps sitting in the corner with a toy—and find your way out the door. It may help to leave the radio on, especially if you can record your own voice.
When you’re home, don’t spend all your time with your dog. Adhere to the walk-and-play schedule you created, but teach him to be independent by not doting on him all the time. If he sleeps in your bed, you may want to reconsider. This definitely contributes to over-attachment.
Keep in mind dogs are social animals. If you can minimize his alone time in any way, perhaps by coming home on your lunch break, hiring a dog walker for the afternoon, or by utilizing a doggie day care once or twice a week, that would be ideal.
Third Potential Problem: Protection Instincts/Fear
Sometimes dogs bark to signal actual danger, but other times their fears aren’t warranted—when the mailman rings the doorbell, for example. The first thing you need to do is train your dog to be obedient and defer to you for behavior cues. After that, you can create situations where people approach and you give him treats as he behaves.
To start, have someone knock on the door. Tell your dog to sit, and if he remains calm, give him a treat. Next have the person come inside and throw treats at him so he’ll associate new people with reward. Each time you do this, ask your assistant to come closer. It’s best to do this in safety of your own home, where you can predict how people will behave.
These are only a few potential causes. In the next installment, we’ll explore potential health problems that could trigger excessive barking.
Pets get lost all the time, and sometimes their tags save them. But what if that’s not how it happens? What if the tag falls off and your pet ends up in a shelter—then adopted to someone else, or even worse, euthanized?
Enter microchips.
Pet microchips, which use radio frequency identification (RFID) technology to store information, are passive—meaning they hold info but don’t need a battery to actively transmit it. A microchip is about the size of a grain of rice, and its casing is biocompatible, so it won’t harm your pet in any way.
The best thing is that it lasts a lifetime; you’ll never need to charge or replace it. Once implanted under the skin between your pet’s shoulder blades, the chip can be detected immediately with a handheld device that uses radio waves to read it. Of course, this only helps if your dog ends up at a shelter that has a microchip-scanning device. Still, it’s a smart form up back-up identification to pick up where your pet’s tags leave off.
As for the cost, it’s really not that bad. Most veterinarians charge between $20–40—which is probably right around what you’d spend making “lost dog” signs in hopes of bringing Fido home.
Once your cat turns a year old, he’ll be ready to take on an adult diet. While kittens need extra protein, vitamins, minerals, and fats to support their energy needs and growth, an adult cat will need far less. However, he’ll still require a well-rounded “maintenance” diet of high-quality, nutritious food.
There are a lot of brands out there. A lot of varieties. Choosing a high-quality one will be in your cat’s best interest. They’ll cost you more, but they have a greater nutritional value than less expensive brands – meaning your cat will get more out of less.
Remember, eating more doesn’t necessarily mean eating better. And in the case of inexpensive brands, often your cat has to eat more just to get the nutrients she needs.During your cat’s final checkup before adulthood, ask your veterinarian for food recommendations, especially since every cat’s diet is overall unique to him.
Some cat-food basics to keep in mind:
Adult cats can be fed once a day (with dry food left out to nibble on). However, for some cats, it’s best to keep to two feedings. To control your cat’s diet, divide his daily portion into two servings. This way, he won’t overeat, but will still get to maintain his routine.
Consider a combination diet of moist and dry food.
All cats need taurine, an essential amino acid found only in animal-based protein. For this reason, a cat’s diet cannot be vegetable-based. Make sure his diet consists of a meat, fish, or poultry source.
Consider rotating your cat’s food selection (e.g. the moist component) so that he doesn’t get bored.
Always have fresh water available. His bowl should be cleaned daily.
And finally, observe your cat. Note that his coat will reflect any deficiencies in his diet and if you do notice this, talk to your vet. A change in his diet may be in order, which can also be impacted by the weather (too warm or cold), changes to his environment (a new home or a new pet), and his age.
Just because your cat doesn’t need to fit in a bikini this summer, that doesn’t mean she shouldn’t be at her healthiest. Fat cats can end up with diabetes, arthritis, and Hepatic Lipidosis. If you notice rolls of fur all over her little body, here’s what you need to do:
Bring her to the vet for a physical examination. You’ll want to learn her exact weight and also have blood and urine tests done to ensure she doesn’t have any physical or metabolic dysfunction. If she’s in good overall health, you can then progress with a weight-loss plan.
Read the food label. You don’t need to become a cat food calorie counter, but you should take note of the fiber, grains and nutrients to ensure a healthy feline diet. Look for a brand that is low in carbohydrates with a good balance of animal-based protein and fat.
Switch smart. If you decide to switch to a healthier cat food, here’s what you’ll want to do: start by sprinkling some of the new food on top of your cat’s old food. For the next couple of days, replace 25 percent of the old food with the new food. Make it a 50/50 blend for the next couple days, and then go 75 percent new food, 25 percent old food. It should take about a week and a half to make the complete transition.
Feed frequently instead of free-feeding (having food available at all times). Feed two to four small portions—around an ounce of food or slightly less per meal for a seven-pound cat.
Get active! Cats like to lie around and lounge, but it’s your job to play with her, and maybe even take her for a walk. (Who said leashes are just for dogs?) Get some toys for her to chase, and consider getting a tall scratching post for her to climb.
Replace grazing with praising. Instead of giving her a treat when she seems to want one, give her some attention, like stroking or grooming. Catnip is also a great treat alternative.
Mark her progress. Weigh her every few weeks to see what she’s lost. If you aren’t happy with the progress, cut back a little more on food. Just remember not to subject your cat to extreme dieting—it’s really bad for her health.
For dogs and cats, toys are not a luxury, but a necessity. They help pets fight boredom as well as avoid the development of certain behaviors, such as chewing or scratching of furniture. What’s more, with toys, you and your pet have yet one more way to bond and build memories. It’s an all-around good idea!
You’ll want to consider your dog’s size, his play area, and activity level. Invest in a variety of toys that can be rotated so that he doesn’t get bored. Include toys your dog can play with alone, along with interactive toys that you can be a part of, too.
Dog Toys:
Tennis balls (appropriate in size)
Chew toys, rope toys, and “treat” toys
Stuffed toys for comfort
Around the house: T-shirts, old blankets, small pillows
Note: Manufacturers like to add “bells and whistles” to toys, but these can be a danger to your dog if played with while unattended. Thus, remove anything that could be chewed off and ingested, such as ribbons, “eyes” and tails.
Dogs mark their territory and then try to find the exact spot again by sniffing for ammonia, the primary component in dog urine. As you housetrain your puppy or dog, you can help him by removing all signs of prior messes. While you’ll be able to see or smell most accidents, it could soak in by the time you do, making it more difficult to detest it. A black light—as seen on It’s Me or the Dog—allows you to see every spot that’s been soiled
If the accident occurs on carpet:
The cleaning process will be different for new and old stains. For new stains, soak up as much wetness as possible with newspaper and paper towels and then apply a wet cloth to the area. Be careful not to rub any residue further into the carpet. For set stains, you’ll want to lift the stain out with a wet vacuum using only water—no chemicals. (Ammonia or vinegar may actually encourage your dog to come back to the spot.) Once you’ve cleaned the area, use a high-quality pet odor-neutralizer to finish the job.
If the accident occurs on a floor:
For tile and hardwood floors, it isn’t sufficient to mop up the mess as the smell will remain. Pull out you black light and you’ll see which spots need further action. You should clean these sections with an enzymatic cleaner before the stain sets. If the acid in the urine reacts with your wall paint or floor varnish, it could lead to discoloration. You’ll need to replace the varnish or paint, using pet-safe products.
It may seem like a lot of work, but it’ll be worth it in the end when your pup insists on “going” outside because he can’t find his spot.
How could you go a whole week without seeing that tiny little face you know and love? Luckily, you don’t have to. Some airlines allow you store a small pet in a carry-on traveler within the cabin of the plane, in the cargo hold with your baggage, or maybe even under your seat. They generally limit the number of pets they’ll allow on a given flight, so you’ll have to check with the airline to reserve a spot and learn what restrictions apply.
If you decide to bring your pet on board, keep these things in mind:
1. The United States Department of Agriculture Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service requires your pet to be at least eight weeks old and weaned before traveling by air.
2. Many states and countries require documentation to prove your pet is healthy. You should make a vet appointment within 30 days of traveling to obtain it.
3. Your kennel must be properly ventilated and big enough for your pet to stand, turn around, and lie down. It must close with a simple mechanism that doesn’t require special tools to open. Check with your airline for their specific policies.
4. Your pet will deal with the kennel better if you give him some time to get to know it before the big day. Leave it open in the house for a while and put some toys inside so he can get to know it. Leave the toys at home during the flight, though; they’re not allowed in the kennel onboard.
5. Exercise your pet before boarding instead of sedating him. The American Veterinary Medical Association believes it is not necessary to sedate your pet, and it can actually do more harm than good since it will affect his equilibrium.
Visit —– for more detailed information about airline pet policies.
Once your cat turns a year old, he’ll be ready to take on an adult diet. Kittens need extra protein, vitamins, minerals, and fats to support their energy and growth needs, but adult cats require far less.
There are a lot of brands and varieties out there. While the higher-quality ones are more expensive, they provide more nutrition per serving—meaning your cat won’t need to eat as much. Since every cat has unique needs, you should ask your veterinarian for food recommendations during your cat’s last checkup before adulthood.
Some cat food basics to keep in mind:
Although you can feed your adult cat once a day, leaving him dry food to “free feed” on after that, it may be better to give him two daily servings to prevent overeating.
Consider a combination diet of moist and dry food. Wet food provides a good water-to-protein balance, while dry food helps keep your cat’s teeth clean.
Cats need taurine—an essential amino acid found only in animal-based protein. A vegetable-based diet is inadvisable.
Consider rotating your cat’s moist food selection so that he doesn’t get bored.
Clean your cat’s water bowl daily, and make sure it is always full.
If your cat isn’t getting the nutrition he needs, you very well may see changes in his coat—matted and faded hair, for example. Consult your veterinarian before supplementing his diet to ensure you don’t do any further harm.
As for brushing your puppy’s teeth, this is extremely important. Without proper brushing, a dog can suffer from major dental problems, most commonly plaque buildup, loose teeth, and abscesses. To help him avoid such pain, regular dental care should complement his vet checkups.
Here are the basics:
You’ll need. Dog toothpaste, a dog toothbrush or finger rubber cap, a gauze (or damp cloth).
Sit close for each access. Choose a position that’s comfortable for both of you.
Start at the top. Lift his upper lip to expose his teeth and apply the brush/cap. He will likely move away at first, but be patient. Use a flavored dog toothpaste to help him be more willing. Once he calms down a bit, begin to brush. Do so in a gentle circular motion.
Move onto the bottom row. Make sure you get to the back of his mouth as well; as this is where common dental problems start. (Just like us.)
Form a routine. Try to brush your dog’s teeth twice a week. It doesn’t take long very long and after the first few brushes, he should settle into the habit. Dry dog food will also help clean his teeth, as well as tartar strips.
A Comprehensive Routine:
And lastly, when establishing a grooming routine for your dog, remind yourself that you’re also investing in his health. Proper care will keep him looking (and feeling) wonderful, plus help you in recognizing any early signs of a change in his appearance and/or behavior. Good luck!
Cats scratch—it’s a given. Even if you just a got a kitten, the claws will come out! Scratching removes the dead outer layer of her claws, while allowing your cat to mark her territory with the scent from her paw glands. Since you can’t stop it, and you shouldn’t declaw her, the key is to give your cat acceptable scratching alternatives and to make the old spots less attractive.
To keep your cat from scratching your furniture:
Choose the right scratching post. Note the texture and size of the object your cat’s been scratching and look for something similar. It doesn’t have to be a carpet-covered piece of wood. You can choose a log, a rope-wrapped post—anything that will be somewhat familiar.
Strategically place the new object. Does your cat scratch the stereo speakers that sit right near the window? It’s not because she hates your taste in music. Maybe she likes conditioning her claws in the sunlight. That’s where the new object should go.
Make the new post fun. Rub it down with catnip or dangle toys on the limbs so she’ll naturally be drawn to it. Resist the urge to pick her up, grab her paw, and scratch it for her. Cats won’t be coerced.
Reward her when she uses it. Praise is far more effective than punishment. As soon as you see her using it, throw some food for her to chase, bring out her favorite toy, or gently rub around her cheek bone, down her back, and on her stomach.
Make the old spot less appealing. Cats don’t like to snag their claws. If you put double sided tape, aluminum foil, or netting on it she’ll quickly learn to stay away. Another option is to mist it with a lemon-scented spray since cats hate citrus smells.
As with any training technique, it will take some time and patience. If you’re consistent, though, you just may results within a matter of days.
While cats are all individual creatures, they nonetheless share common behaviors, like stalking and pouncing, “hiding” in plain view, and chattering at birds.
Additionally, most of them find a dripping faucet mesmerizing—even though they have an aversion to getting wet. The fresh, clean smell and the movement of the stream incite their natural curiosity and awaken their senses. In fact, you may find your cat lapping at the water as you brush your teeth or do dishes.
To keep your cat interested in the water you provide you should always have a fresh, clean bowl available. There are many kinds of water dishes on the market, but the stainless-steel variety remains the most popular.
Stainless steel is:
Easy to clean and disinfect
Resistant to rust and other corrosion
Durable, with a clean and complementary look
Great at minimizing odors
Make sure to wash and rinse it thoroughly before filling it with fresh tap water. Of course it won’t be nearly as exciting as a faucet, but it will keep your cat hydrated and healthy.
Becoming a pet owner is a wonderful thing. For some of us though, it may seem like an experience not to be. If we suffer from allergies, that is. An estimated 10% of the U.S. population is allergic to animals. Are you this 1 in 10? If so, is there an alternative for you?
A pet allergy can be triggered by saliva, fur, urine, or droppings. From cats to dogs, birds to rabbits, all can be the object of our allergy problems. The biggest contributing allergen however is probably dander.
What exactly is dander? It’s basically skin flakes or old skin, which dogs, cats, birds, and other various animals all shed. Once the tiny dander becomes airborne, it becomes like dust.
It’s in the air, on the furniture, on the drapes. And like dust, it’s very naturally part of the environment. However, for allergy sufferers, this could be what stands between you and a pet.
Yet 70% of the population owns a cat or a dog and chances are very likely that a good portion is made up of persons with allergies. Indeed, even if the family pet’s dander is identified as the “cause,” more often than not, the pet will win out.
If tolerable, the allergy sufferer will just find a compromise and workaround to minimize impact. This’ll include HEPA air cleaners, constantly mopped hardwood floors, and fresh furnace filters.
Consult your doctor. If you’re considering a pet and have allergies or if you already have a pet and an allergy erupts, ask your doctor what can be done. An honest assessment will be given as well as advice on how to best live with your dander allergy.
Here are some useful tips:
Brush your cat daily to remove loose hair
Clean and vacuum your home regularly
Use special pet wipes to remove dander
Keep your pet out of your bedroom
Keep your pet’s skin healthy by feeding cat nutritional supplement.
Though it may be tempting to give your pet scraps from the table, think again! Think about your pet. Giving into begging is never good for your pet’s diet, which should be for the most part controlled.
A pet is unlikely to say no to a goodie that’s delicious. They’re simply not aware of what it could mean to their health, so it’s up to you, as pet guardian, to make sure there’s no access to such harmful foods. The toxicity in certain foods could mean a trip to the vet and a lesson learned the hard way.
Protect your pet from the start, from the risk of:
Chocolate: While recent studies have shown chocolate to have healthful benefits for humans, thanks to the antioxidants; for dogs and cats, chocolate is nothing but a sweet toxin. The theobromine in chocolate can cause severe reactions. The caffeine is also a no-no.
Raisins and grapes: Surprisingly yes. Grapes and their shriveled form are both toxic to dogs. (For cats, you shouldn’t risk it either.) Raisins and grapes may seem harmless, but “nature’s candy” can mean acute kidney failure for dogs!
Mushrooms: Another seemingly healthy addition to your dog’s diet, but certain mushrooms for certain dogs could be poison. Signs of upset include vomiting, abdominal pain, lethargy, excess salivation, and even more severe reaction like seizure.
Onions: For both cats and dogs, onions can lead to anemia. Garlic for cats can result in the same.
Caffeine: From coffee to tea bags. Like chocolate, these caffeine-containing foods can lead to severe reactions. The stimulant in them may be too much for your cat to take and it’s best to keep these away altogether. For us, caffeine is fine; but for our pets, not at all.
Garden plants and flowers: You never know which is “poison” for your pup or cat. It’s simply best to keep them away. To distract from such attractive greenery, give pets plenty of toys to chew and get lost in.
Seeds: From apples, peaches, and apricots, you’ll want to keep your kitty and her tummy away from these.
Basically, you’ll want to keep your pet on a healthy diet – one that doesn’t involve table scraps or harmful foods! Let them be a dog or cat and give them food made especially for them, whether it’s purchased in-store or prepared at-home. Most importantly, you’ll want to make sure it meets your pet’s daily requirements and also, is approved by a vet. Your beloved pet will be curious by nature, but still, you wouldn’t want him/her to suffer for it.
Our pets communicate with us in all sorts of ways. From cuddling and purring to biting and chirping, they convey their moods, alert us to danger, and express their affection. Dogs communicate primarily through—you guessed it—barking. But what are they trying to say? What’s going on in their furry heads? It’s up to us to find out.
In this series, we’ll explore some ways to help if your dog’s barking becomes a problem. Quick fixes, like citronella no-bark collars, don’t tackle the real issue, whatever it may be. As his parent, it’s your responsibility to figure out what’s really going on.
Causes of problematic barking include:
Boredom or loneliness
Protective behavior
Fears
Separation anxiety
In the coming weeks, we’ll take a closer look at each of these root causes, as well as the recommended method to correct them. For now, keep this in mind: no-bark collars are not the way!
Dogs bark excessively for a number of reasons, including boredom, loneliness, separation anxiety, fear, and protection instincts. You can’t eliminate barking altogether—it is how they communicate, after all—but you can teach your dog to only bark when the timing is right. If there’s an actual threat, for example.
Pets get lost all the time, and sometimes their tags save them. But what if that’s not how it happens? What if the tag falls off and your pet ends up in a shelter—then adopted to someone else, or even worse, euthanized?
Once your cat turns a year old, he’ll be ready to take on an adult diet. While kittens need extra protein, vitamins, minerals, and fats to support their energy needs and growth, an adult cat will need far less. However, he’ll still require a well-rounded “maintenance” diet of high-quality, nutritious food.
Just because your cat doesn’t need to fit in a bikini this summer, that doesn’t mean she shouldn’t be at her healthiest. Fat cats can end up with diabetes, arthritis, and Hepatic Lipidosis. If you notice rolls of fur all over her little body, here’s what you need to do:
For dogs and cats, toys are not a luxury, but a necessity. They help pets fight boredom as well as avoid the development of certain behaviors, such as chewing or scratching of furniture. What’s more, with toys, you and your pet have yet one more way to bond and build memories. It’s an all-around good idea!
Dogs mark their territory and then try to find the exact spot again by sniffing for ammonia, the primary component in dog urine. As you housetrain your puppy or dog, you can help him by removing all signs of prior messes. While you’ll be able to see or smell most accidents, it could soak in by the time you do, making it more difficult to detest it. A black light—as seen on It’s Me or the Dog—allows you to see every spot that’s been soiled
